Nepal is currently in turmoil. The dramatic shift from a prosperous past to a politically turbulent present invites reflection. What has led to this upheaval in a country that once stood as a symbol of stability and charm?
Once an enchanting kingdom nestled in the Himalayas, Nepal has seen a remarkable evolution over the past few decades. In the 1970s and 80s, it was a beacon of prosperity and allure, particularly for Indians. With its bustling streets, casinos, vibrant pubs, and resorts, Kathmandu was a hotspot for the elite, offering foreign apparel, electronics, and unique goods that were hard to find in India. It was a place that felt more “happening” than many Indian cities at the time.
Today, however, the story is starkly different. Nepal is grappling with severe political unrest, with young people taking to the streets to demand change. In Kathmandu, the situation is intense; students have set fire to the national parliament, attacked government offices, and are holding political leaders accountable for widespread corruption.
The Personal Account
This present turmoil stands in sharp contrast to a visit I made in 2019. During that trip, which included training journalists, I met a senior editor of a leading Nepali newspaper and had eye-opening conversations with media professionals, politicians, and other influential people. While staying at one of Kathmandu’s oldest Himalaya hotel, I was surprised by frequent power cuts, a bizarre reality given Nepal’s vast hydroelectric potential of 85,000 MW, against a mere consumption of 3,000 MW.
Another revelation came during a training session with young journalists. When I asked them to choose a topic for a mock news story, their unanimous choice was making Nepal a Hindu nation again, a sentiment that was surprising since the country had been declared secular in 2008 after abolishing Hindu Monarchy.
The third surprise unfolded during a flight over Mount Everest—I noticed groups of Westerners in matching T-shirts with religious slogans waiting for flights to remote villages. I was told that these were missionaries helping with rehabilitation after the devastating Nepal earthquake in 2015. While their aid was appreciated, locals were concerned about the reported conversion of Hindus to Christianity, which had led to a noticeable decline in the Hindu population, a figure that was over 85% during the rule of the Shah dynasty.
Strong Undercurrent in Support of Monarchy
In casual conversations in hotel lobbies and in the parties, I found a surprising longing for the monarchy. Many felt that the past stability and prosperity under the monarchy were superior to the current democratic setup, which has struggled with instability since the monarchy was abolished in 2008. A senior editor advised me not to draw parallels between Nepal and India, emphasizing that Nepalis take pride in their sovereignty and their history of never being colonized by the British. He pointed out that posters of King Prithvi Narayan Shah are still visible behind Nepal Army generals when they address the nation even today.
Relations with India
Nepal’s relationship with India is layered and complex. During a visit in 2014, senior journalists told me that while Nepalis value their ties with India, they are sensitive about being perceived as an extension of it. This sensitivity was perfectly illustrated by Sahib Singh Varma, the former Chief Minister of Delhi, who caused discomfort by stating, “Both my cook and watchman are from Nepal.” Similarly, a leading Bollywood actress from the 1990s had to be escorted out of a hotel and put on the next flight to Delhi after saying on a live radio interview in Kathmandu: “Nepal is the most beautiful state of India.”
When it comes to development, while India has contributed to Nepal’s infrastructure, there is a growing appreciation for Chinese efficiency. Chinese companies completed the Pokhara airport and the ring road around Kathmandu ahead of schedule, a fact that has often been contrasted with the delays associated with Indian contractors. A senior journalist once made a light-hearted but telling joke: if India could just “shift Gujarat and Maharashtra to the Nepal border instead of Uttar Pradesh and Bihar,” infrastructure projects might progress faster.
Nepal stands at a crucial juncture today. The current unrest reflects deep-seated frustrations, and the call for a return to monarchy or a corruption free-system and a Hindu identity is a testament to the population’s yearning for change. How the government responds and whether it can address these concerns will undoubtedly shape the nation’s future.
